QRZ! Ham Radio 5/QRZ Ham Radio Callsign Database - Volume 5.iso/digests/infoham/940720.txt

Internet Message Format | 1994-11-13 | 25.3 KB

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 13:34:50 PDT
From: Info-Hams Mailing List and Newsgroup <[e-mail]>
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Reply-To: [e-mail]
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Subject: Info-Hams Digest V94 #720
To: Info-Hams


Info-Hams Digest            Wed, 29 Jun 94       Volume 94 : Issue  720

Today's Topics:
 [Long] Battery mah measurements & W&W (Was: Opinions on batteries?)
                      Best dual-band HT antenna
                               Clipart
               Help with No Scratch mag mount (2 msgs)
                   HF Mobile Noise Problem (Part 2)
                       Kenwood RM76 Docs Wanted
                           License Renewal
               Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C? (3 msgs)
                        The Gettysburg Addres

Send Replies or notes for publication to: <[e-mail]>
Send subscription requests to: <[e-mail]>
Problems you can't solve otherwise to [e-mail].

Archives of past issues of the Info-Hams Digest are available
(by FTP only) from UCSD.Edu in directory "mailarchives/info-hams".

We trust that readers are intelligent enough to realize that all text
herein consists of personal comments and does not represent the official
policies or positions of any party.  Your mileage may vary.  So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 1994 18:17:15 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate![e-mail]
Subject: [Long] Battery mah measurements & W&W (Was: Opinions on batteries?)
To: [e-mail]

In article <[e-mail]>,
Steve Haehnichen <[e-mail]> wrote:
Stuff about W/W deleted

>I also bought one of their extended FNB-27(S) 12v 800mah batteries,
>but I can't say much good about it.  It does have the standard micro
>phono charge input connector, unlike some other 3rd party batteries,
>but I will probably never use that anyway.
>
>Also, the 800mah rating is a bit generous, if not deceitful.  I put a
>fixed 117 ohm load on it and recorded the voltage over several hours.
>It went from full resting charge (13v) down to 5.5v over a period of
>419 minutes.  The curve shape was normal for a new nicad pack (12.0v
>at 352 minutes, downhill from there.)
>
>My question is HOW do they rate the mAh of a battery?  I called W&W
>and they said that they don't at all.  They just copy the "800 mah"
>rating that Sanyo gives them on the cells.  I'm not impressed.
>
>If I take each measurement sample (1/2 second steps), measure the
>voltage, compute the current based on 117 ohms, and multiply the amps,
>volts, and fraction of an hour, I get a sum total of 8.88205 VAhr
>under the curve (before it drops to 5.5v).  I use 5.5v because that's
>where my FT-530 shuts itself off.  I consider the battery dead before
>then.
>
>Dividing by 8.88205 VAhr by 12.0v gives a total of .7402 Ah, which is
>less than the rated 800 mAh.  In reality, I would say "much less",
>since the battery is probably useless for transmitting as soon as it
>can't support a load.  (117 ohms isn't much of a load.)
>

Well, you want to stop when the cells get to 1.0V each, or 12V
for the pack.  Anything after that and you risk cell reversal.

Unfortunately, Ah ratings are done independent of voltage.  An
amp of current is an amp of current, so you want to count electrons,
not VAhr which is energy.

Nevertheless, I'm not surprised at your findings, since it is a new
pack.  NiCds need to be cycled a couple of times before you get
full capacity.  Most people don't bother, since in regular use,
it will get cycled.  But, I would be curious to see what your
results would be if you repeated the experiment.  Go to 12.0V
only, the rest is bad for your cells.  Do what you did, but just
integrate current over time, and not worry about the terminal voltage
as long as it is above 12.0V.  I would guess that the second time
you'll get more capacity.

Most delta-V chargers undercharge cells.  NiCd chemistry is not
very friendly to quick charging.  Delta-V chargers will charge
a cell to about 85 to 90 percent of full charge.
Delta-V chargers stop charging when the charge current starts oxygen
production at the positive plate.  This causes heating, which
in turn reduces the polarization at the positive plate, lowering
the terminal voltage, and the triggering delta-V.
To get the last 10 percent of the charge, you need to charge the cell
until the terminal voltage reaches 1.6V in order to fully
charge the positive plate.  Unfortunately, at 1.6V, most of
the current is going to produce oxygen at the
positive terminal, and if it is done at too high a current,
it will cause damage to the cell.  So, you need to run the
delta-V charger, then trickle charge for a while, say 3 hours
at 0.1C or 80 mA in your case.  Then test.

I suspect they are using Sanyo KR800-AAE cells.  Those are good
cells, and will supply their rated capacity if cycled a couple
times and charged fully.  Most manufacturers rate the cells
when charged using the standard method, or 0.1C for 14-16 hours
at 20C.  NiCd charge efficiency drops off rapidly at higher
temperatures.

Good luck and good post.

        -ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 15:26:09 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!library.ucla.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!sitka.wsipc.wednet.edu!egreen!egreen![e-mail]
Subject: Best dual-band HT antenna
To: [e-mail]

Larsen also has superior quality control on each of their duckiew.
Each one is tested individually and they really stand by their product.
I now have a Magmount that has outlasted 5 cars.

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 94 13:34:29
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!ulowell!vtc.tacom.army.mil!rcsuna.gmr.com!rcsuna.gmr.com![e-mail]
Subject: Clipart
To: [e-mail]

In article <[e-mail]> [e-mail] (William Vaughn) writes:

   <stuff deleted>
                                                     One of the gentlemen
   in my HAM class is a commercial artist and we are working on a set of
   amateur radio clip art to be distributed via shareware. It should be
   ready by the end of the year.
   William Vaughn    [e-mail] "Just plain Bill."

Wow! That would be *GREAT*!  I and several other newsletter editors
have been looking for such a thing for a long time.  I hope you plan
to announce the contribution as soon as it's available.

--
Val Breault - N8OEF - [e-mail]   \      /|
Instrumentation dept  GM NAO R&D Center   \    / |
My opinions are not necessarily those of   \  /__|
GMR nor of the General Motors Corporation   \/   |___

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 1994 11:59:26 -0400
From: elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpuerci.atl.hp.com!hpuerca![e-mail]
Subject: Help with No Scratch mag mount
To: [e-mail]

In <2uqces$[e-mail]> [e-mail] (Jeff Kashinsky) writes:

>I have a Larsen NMO mag mount and the plastic on the bottom is ripped. The
>magnet has started scratching the car paint.

>Suggestions of what to use to replace the plastic would be appreciated.

Sure :-)

1. Carefully unscrew the antenna from the magnet base.
2. With sharp diagonal cutters cut off the coax as close to
   the magnet as possible: save for later use.
3. With either the correct size hole saw or a hole punch (punch
   requires pulling down the headliner), put a properly sized
   hole in the middle of your roof (you can use the scratch marks
   from previous use of mag mount as a guide).
4. Attach salvaged coax (or use new) to a Larsen NMO roof mount.
   Guide coax through nearby roof channel to radio location.
5. Insert Larsen NMO roof mount in hole in roof and tighten.
6. Carefully screw antenna onto the neatly mounted NMO in rooftop.
7. Enjoy radio and antenna without any more worry about base of
   mount scratching paint, mount blowing off of roof, or branches
   knocking your antenna over.
8. Use salvaged magnet to hold 5 1/4 inch computer floppies handy
   on the side of the metal filing cabinet closest to computer.
   (OKAY, this is just for show to confuse friends; don't do this
   with floppies you expect to use again! :-)

Glad to be of assistance :-)

Cheers & 73
Ed Humphries N5RCK
HP Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 19:44:23 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac.ecs.csus.edu!zimmer!zimmer.csufresno.edu![e-mail]
Subject: Help with No Scratch mag mount
To: [e-mail]

In article <edh.772904725@hpuerca> [e-mail] (Ed Humphries) writes:
>From: [e-mail] (Ed Humphries)
>Subject: Re: Help with No Scratch mag mount
>Date: 29 Jun 1994 11:59:26 -0400

>In <2uqces$[e-mail]> [e-mail] (Jeff Kashinsky) writes:

>>I have a Larsen NMO mag mount and the plastic on the bottom is ripped. The
>>magnet has started scratching the car paint.

>>Suggestions of what to use to replace the plastic would be appreciated.

>Sure :-)


Ed Humpries (N5RCK) replies:

(1 and 2 left out)

>3. With either the correct size hole saw or a hole punch (punch
>   requires pulling down the headliner), put a properly sized
>   hole in the middle of your roof (you can use the scratch marks
>   from previous use of mag mount as a guide).

>Glad to be of assistance :-)


Poor Jeff,  he was asking for advice on how not to scratch his car paint and
ends up with a hole in the roof!


Here is what I did when my mag mount plastic worn out.  Get a piece of flannel
fabric (black will look better) and some contact cement (elmers will do).
Clean the plastic left out in the mag mount and apply the cement. Place the
mount on the fabric and cut the excess fabric with an exacto knife.  You may
want to try other materials instead of the flannel, however they may diminish
the magnetic force of the magnet.  Flannel works fine (up to 100 mph!).

73 de Rafael



*******************************************************************
Rafael Solis, Professor        Craig School of Business
[e-mail]    California State University, Fresno
[phone]            [phone] (Fax)
*******************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 94 15:25:12
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!gatech!concert!ashe.cs.unc.edu!news_server![e-mail]
Subject: HF Mobile Noise Problem (Part 2)
To: [e-mail]

Thanks for the tips many of you have sent.  I've done some more
experiments and have gotten some encouraging results.  Possibly this
will help someone else.

For those coming in late, the quick summary is that I had S7 noise in
my TS-50 with 20 meter HamStick antenna when my Plymouth Acclaim engine
was running.  No noise with the engine off.  No alternator whine, just
high-rate popping that varied with engine speed.

I made a little "sniffer" from a single turn 4 inch diameter loop of
hookup wire at the end of a length of coax.  With this I determined
that the noise was only audible when the sniffer was pretty close to
the ignition wires.  No noise was audible with the loop back at the
rear of the car (near the antenna), even with the sniffer ground
connected to the auto ground (seems to me that this rules out a ground
loop problem but maybe I misunderstand).  No noise was detected when
the sniffer was placed directly in contact with the power leads to the
radio.

Someone suggested shielding the sparkplug wires and distributor.  In
fact, PEP Boys (an auto parts chain store) sells a kit for $19.95 to
do just this.  Being really cheap, and not wanting to spend $20 on an
experiment, I (at the suggestion of a colleague) devised a simple,
quick, and cheap experiment.

I wrapped my sparkplug wires, distributor, and high-voltage coil in
aluminum foil.  It's all nice and shiny in there now :-)  I wouldn't
do this for a permanent installation, mind you, just for an experiment.

The result was a 3 S-unit reduction in noise (hard to be sure, it
could be more, it is pretty noisy on 20 meters right now).  This
reduces my noise level from S7+ to S4-.  I think there is still
some noise but it is different in character from the ignition noise I
was experiencing without the foil.  I'll have to wait until 20 meters
is quiet to be sure about the current noise level.  Maybe I'll get to
put some of those suggestions about other sources of noise to good
use...

For a permanent installation I think I might try 3M Copper Foil Tape.
I've got several rolls that I picked up at a hamfest for $0.25/each.
I think, I'll try wrapping the plug wires and covering the surface of
the little plastic piece that surrounds my distributor with this tape
and see what happens.

By the way, I tried the foil both grounded and ungrounded.  It didn't
seem to matter.

So, if you're experiencing noise that might be capacitively coupled
from your ignition system, try an experiment with aluminum foil.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.

gb wa4fut

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 15:41:48 GMT
From: netcomsv!butch!enterprise![e-mail]
Subject: Kenwood RM76 Docs Wanted
To: [e-mail]

My friend Burce, N7CPP has a Kenwood RM76 Remote Control Head
for a TR7625.  Unfortunately, his manual has disappeared into
a black hole and he doesn't know how to program the thing!

Anyone with a manual to give/sell/repro, please get in touch
with Bruce (callbook address is good), followup here, or give
me a landline at [phone].

Don't Email, as it is Kaput  :-(

Thanks & 73's, George Lyle, N7TNJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 17:40:49 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ns.mcs.kent.edu!kira.cc.uakron.edu!malgudi.oar.net!utnetw.utoledo.edu!uoft02.utoledo.edu![e-mail]
Subject: License Renewal
To: [e-mail]

In article <2urr63$[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (William J. Turner) writes:
>
>In article <2uqn3t$[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Dick Flanagan) writes:
>|> Doesn't anyone read the Regs anymore?
>|>
>|> 97.19(c) When the licensee has submitted a timely application for renewal
>|> of an unexpired license (between 60 and 90 days prior to the end of the
>|> license term is recommended), the licensee may continue to operate until
>|> the disposition of the application has been determined.
>|> ---
>|>
>|> In other words, you may continue to operate until you eventually receive
>|> your renewed license =OR= until you are notified by the FCC that it was
>|> not renewed.
>
>So, if you never renew and you never *tell* the FCC you didn't renew,
>you can operate forever?  (Yeah, right!)

Don't you read?  The first line starts with : WHEN THE LICENSEE HAS SUBMITTED
A TIMELY APPLICATION FOR RENEWAL

In other words, you hve to TELL the FCC you want to renew, then you could
operate forever if the FCC sits on your app forever

Patrick KB8PYM

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 1994 11:41:32 -0400
From: elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpuerci.atl.hp.com!hpuerca![e-mail]
Subject: Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C?
To: [e-mail]

In <[e-mail]> [e-mail] (Art Winterbauer) writes:

>Does anyone know of a source for a quick temperature conversion chart
>between F and C?  I can't recall the formula (or where to find it), and
>would just like a way to rapidly convert between the two scales when
>in QSO.

Easy: just buy a thermometer with both scales on it!

Okay. You can use the following:

Temperature Conversions --        Fahrenheit    Celsius

Celsius (centigrade) to Fahrenheit/        212    100
Fahrenheit to Celsius                122     50
                        113     45
F=degrees in Fahrenheit                104     40
C=degrees in Celsius                98.6     37
                         95     35
F=(9/5 x C) + 32                 86     30
                         77     25
C=(F - 32) x 5/9                 68     20
                         59     15
9/5 = 1.8                     50     10
                         41      5
5/9 = .555                     32      0
                         23     -5
                         14    -10
                          5    -15
                         -4    -20
                        -13    -25

-----
Cheers & 73
Ed Humphries N5RCK
HP Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jun 94 18:12:41 GMT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C?
To: [e-mail]

[[e-mail]](Art Winterbauer  N0OQS) asks:

        >Does anyone know of a source for a quick temperature conversion
        >chart between F and C?  I can't recall the formula (or where to
        >find it), and would just like a way to rapidly convert between the
        >two scales when
        >in QSO.

Several sources:

        *     Most Almanacs

        *     The New York Public Library Desk Reference

        *     Omega Instruments Catalog

        *     f=(c*9/5)+32

        *     c=(f-32)*5/9

_____________________________________________________________________
Wm. A. Kirsanoff              Internet: [e-mail]
Rockwell International        Ham: KD6MCI
[phone]
Alternate Internet: [e-mail]
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Who are you? * I am number 2. *  Who is number 1? * You are number 6.
---------------------------------------------------------------------





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 17:15:13 GMT
From: pacbell.com!ptsfa![e-mail]
Subject: Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C?
To: [e-mail]

In article <2urr2v$[e-mail]> [e-mail] (William J. Turner) writes:
>
>In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Art Winterbauer) writes:
>|> Does anyone know of a source for a quick temperature conversion chart
>|> between F and C?  I can't recall the formula (or where to find it), and
>|> would just like a way to rapidly convert between the two scales when
>|> in QSO.
>
>Making your own is probably the easiest way.  The formula is:
>
>C = (5 / 9)*(F - 32)
>
>    or...
>
>(C - 40) = (5 / 9)*(F - 40)
                       ^
>
>Both work--it just depends on which is easier to remember...

There is a typo in the second formula. It should read:

    (C - 40) = (5 / 9)*(F + 40)

Although I remember the first formula (and its sibling),
I use the second formula because it will work for C -> F
with minor changes:

    (F - 40) = (9 / 5)*(C + 40)

Actually all I remember is:

    add 40 to the known temperature
    multiply by 5/9 or 9/5
    subtract 40

The only tricky part is knowing that F degrees are smaller than C degrees
so you multply by 5/9 to convert to C and 9/5 to convert to F.


--
Dave Turner    [phone]    {att,bellcore,sun,ames,decwrl}!pacbell!dmturne

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 18:18:36 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!vmcms.csuohio.edu![e-mail]
Subject: The Gettysburg Addres
To: [e-mail]

In article <[e-mail]>
[e-mail] (Webb Linzmayer) writes:

>
>jeff-
>
>hi
>
>i posted a message part of which appears in the msg to which this is
>a reply, here's ur msg:
>
>-> Message-ID: <2u4han$[e-mail]>
>-> Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.misc
>-> Organization: Tivoli Systems, Inc. - Austin, TX
>->
>-> In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Webb
>-> Linzmayer) writes:
>-> |> hi
>-> |>
>-> |> my license expires in a few weeks
>-> M7)+_ .DOY5\5A_X>)_[A_FS\QP_^[X+_ +C?^E,IL_:3ROWE/VW[U?U]GT.I
>-> M4/W3[K_/U.<\4Z/!KNB:AI3I_P ?-G^YE\GWK'.*,:M%77?OT</-=C;)JTJ-
>-> MG]QK<^DR_9-1@N;&3_GC+#71#8YG6_K^D3P>)X';_7^;(/\ GE7.M 7Y&A'K
       <( more lines like this deleted)>
>-> |>
>-> |> i need to know the address (& fone # woul
>
>got a couple of nice replies & killed my request.
>
>what is all the M... stuff above ?
>
>1/ a mistake   ?
>2/ a uu encoded ??
    Yes, uuencoded, it seems.  The M character at the beginning is the
encoded line length for a line of full size, so most uuencoded stuff
has each line beginning with M. ------- It is probably garbeled though,
so may not be fully decodable.  It probably got there by accident anyway,
and probably has nothing to do with the thread you cite.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 18:13:06 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.kei.com!wang![e-mail]
To: [e-mail]

References <[e-mail]>, <2urr2v$[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>t.
Subject : Re: Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C?

[e-mail] (Dave Turner) writes:

>In article <2urr2v$[e-mail]> [e-mail] (William J. Turner) writes:
>>
>>In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Art Winterbauer) writes:
>>|> Does anyone know of a source for a quick temperature conversion chart
>>|> between F and C?  I can't recall the formula (or where to find it), and
>>|> would just like a way to rapidly convert between the two scales when
>>|> in QSO.
>>
>>Making your own is probably the easiest way.  The formula is:
>>

No, it's easier to print this and cut it out.

 F    C

-40  -40
-30  -34
-20  -29
-10  -23
  0  -18
 10  -12
 20   -7
 30   -1
 40    4
 50   10
 60   16
 70   21
 80   27
 90   32
100   38
110   43


--
Dave Bushong, Wang Laboratories, Inc.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 19:13:41 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!ptsfa![e-mail]
To: [e-mail]

References <[e-mail]>, <2urr2v$[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>
Reply-To : [e-mail] (Dave Turner)
Subject : Re: Temp. Conversion Chart: F & C?

In article <[e-mail]> [e-mail] (Dave Turner) writes:
>In article <2urr2v$[e-mail]> [e-mail] (William J. Turner) writes:
>>
>>(C - 40) = (5 / 9)*(F - 40)
>                       ^
>>
>>Both work--it just depends on which is easier to remember...
>
>There is a typo in the second formula. It should read:
>
>    (C - 40) = (5 / 9)*(F + 40)
>

I was a little more brain-dead than usual when I typed the above.

It should read:

    (C + 40) = (5 / 9)*(F + 40)

I usually type it the "traditional" way:

    C = ((F + 40) * (5/9)) - 40



--
Dave Turner    [phone]    {att,bellcore,sun,ames,decwrl}!pacbell!dmturne

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 1994 17:03:59 GMT
From: ihnp4.ucsd.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!selway.umt.edu![e-mail]
To: [e-mail]

References <2ur75n$[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>
Subject : Re: Whereis callsign server


The "full new list" the FCC puts out in January must have a cutoff date
in November. My license was issued on 12/9/93 and I am not on the Buffalo
callsign server yet, despite the "current as of January 1994" words.

David F. Glass, KB7ZGX
Missoula, MT
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 94 15:34:04 GMT
From: netcomsv!butch!enterprise![e-mail]
To: [e-mail]

References <[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>, <[e-mail]>
Subject : Re: Railroad track as an antenna?

In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (James W. Lynch) writes:
|> In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Joe Salemi) writes:
|> |>
|> |> In article <[e-mail]>, STORM JAMES ([e-mail]) writes:
|> |> >I have heard a legend that a college radio station (either at MIT, Tufts,
|> |> >or Swarthmore) welded antenna to railroad tracks, and peeved the FCC by
|> |> >broadcasting nationwide.  Is this true?  If anyone knows, please email me
|> |> >(or post here)  If you do know, could you please direct me to some
|> |> >documentation regarding this legend if you can.
|> |> >
|> |>
|> |> Never heard of this one, but I do know of someone who ran a radial wire
|> |> from his vertical antenna to the RR tracks behind his house, and
|> |> bragged he had the entire East Coast as his radial system. <g>
|> |>
|>
|> Back in the 60's I talked with a ham in Kansas that had hooked up to an old
|> telegraph line that was running through his property and used it for a long
|> wire.  He claimed that he followed it for 7 miles before he found a break in
|> the line.  Oh, yes he had a pretty good signal.

Along the same vein...
A few months ago, the hider in our local T-hunt loaded up an old telegraph
line that ran about 3 miles on 2m.  It was a (untranmittable word) to find!

All sorts of hot and dead spots.  The only consistancy was that the signal
was hot under the line.  The T was hidden in a fake, but official-looking
utility box buried in the ground, with the feed going up an old disconnected
ground wire.  A strong contender for "Hide of the Year"!

BTW, this was billed as a _beginner_ hunt  :-)

73, George, N7TNJ

------------------------------

End of Info-Hams Digest V94 #720
******************************